A Call for Peace 呼喚和平:俄烏烽火持續延燒，時裝周以實際行動期盼改變

Balenciaga 2022 秋冬系列。

Balenciaga FW22 Fashion Show.

時尚靈感來自於生活，關於自然、關於環境，乃至於生活周遭細小甚微的事件與物品都可以成為靈感與設計，經過了兩年以上的疫情肆虐，減少了外出旅行與各種社交活動，品牌順應著需求與激盪的理想以服裝化為語言，傳達更貼近人心的舒適感受與盼望美好烏托邦的景象。而近日俄烏烽火持續延燒，即便外界生活依舊，時裝周依然如期舉行，但在響應支持和平行動中，仍然有不少設計師、品牌和奢侈品集團，於艱難的時刻選擇發聲，以實際行動期盼改變。

Fashion inspiration ranges from life, nature, environment to daily events and objects. After a two-year long pandemic, brands are turning clothing into a form of language to deliver comfort and the yearn for a beautiful Utopian world. As the Russia-Ukraine war continues, Paris Fashion Week also proceeds. However, to show their support towards world peace, designers, brands and luxury conglomerates have chosen to step up and voice their opinions in the hopes of achieving actual change in this time of crisis.

秋冬時裝周如火如荼的進行著，而俄烏烽火也持續延燒，外界生活與戰爭即便是活在同個一時空卻也如同平行世界，普通的小日子對於慘遭於迫害之人來說是期盼的美好，戰爭留下的從來不是勝利，而是毀滅與悲痛，是全人類沈重的悲劇。時尚與藝術渴望著說話的聲音，以無形或有形的方式，直言或轉彎的手法，全都表達著同一件事情。Giorgio Armani 秋冬女裝大秀臨時決定以無音樂的方式像正在進行的俄烏戰爭處於烏克蘭悲劇影響的人們致意，一位位模特兒寂靜走向伸展台，整場秀一片嚴肅與肅靜，只聽見服裝摩擦與鞋跟踩踏聲，在座的每位觀眾不需要言語也能夠心靈相通，Armani先生說到：「我們不想要表現慶祝的訊息，因為極度困擾的事情正在我們身邊發生。」Armani先生也成為了首位透過時裝周大秀明確表態的設計師。

With warfare and fashion week simultaneously happening, it almost feels like we are living in a world with parallel universes. Our quotidian now feels like a blessing to the oppressed. What follows war is never celebrations of victory, but a tragedy of humanity that is filled with destruction and sorrow. In fashion and art, we are accustomed to loudness in every level, whether through tangible or intangible methods, direct or subtle ways. As the first designer to directly use his show to mourn for the atrocities, Giorgio Armani decided to pay his tribute to all Ukrainians with a show with no music. As the models walked on stage silently, only the sound of ruffling garments and footsteps could be heard. "The best thing to do is send a message that we don't want to celebrate because something very disturbing is happening around us."

（左右）Giorgio Armani 2022 秋冬系列 。（中）Giorgio Armani 先生。

於巴黎時裝週期間，Balenciaga 再度清空了品牌社群帳號，並發布烏克蘭國旗的照片，於貼文處散播和平意識與傳遞有關烏克蘭的資訊，同時也提供捐款至世界糧食計劃署(WFP)，支持對於烏克蘭人民的支援與幫助，希望透過影響力號招更多的人以行動支持。在 Balenciaga 2022秋冬大秀前夕，由於聽聞戰爭之消息，Balenciaga 創意總監 Demna 喚起過往關於戰爭的悲痛回憶：「烏克蘭的戰爭喚起我的痛苦，來自1993年以來便緊跟著我的過往創傷，那時候，一樣的事情發生在我的家鄉，我成了難民。痛苦，永遠的，因為它就常駐在我心中。恐懼、絕望，以及理解到沒有人要你。但我也理解到生命中真正至關重要的事物，最珍貴的事物，像是生命本身，像是人類的愛與同理心。 這正是為什麼籌備這場秀對我來說是不可思議的困難。因為在這樣的時刻，時尚失去了關聯性，以及它存在的實際權利。時裝週聽起來很荒謬。我考慮過取消這場我們團隊費心籌備且滿心期待的時裝秀。但我理解到，取消辦秀就代表我屈服了，屈服於那個將近三十年傷害我至深的邪惡。面對這樣毫無意義、泯滅人性的戰爭背後的自大，我決定我不能夠再犧牲生命中任何一部份。 這場秀不需要任何解釋。我將它獻給無懼，獻給反抗，獻給愛與和平的勝利。」對於現況與是否辦秀的掙扎，Demna 在世人面前打破沈默打造以反戰聲音為初衷的服裝理念。

模特在狂風暴雪中踩著堅毅的步伐，儘管在凌亂的景象都讓人屏息，每一個畫面帶有著動感的激昂與情感的深刻連結，擅長以末日作為秀場靈感的 Demna 對於美好烏托邦的反其道而行，冷冽的狂風中出場的是各種黑色裝束，最後殘破不堪的蕾絲拖曳長裙與黃和藍的「希望」點綴，就算是在暗黑、末日主義也會因為愛與憐憫帶來正向的勇氣。

Joining forces to support Ukraine, Balenciaga once again cleared out its Instagram feed with only one image of the Ukrainian flag remaining. Turning its social platforms into a medium for providing information about the situation, the Spanish brand also made a donation to The World Food Programme, calling to people to offer all the help they can offer. An hour before the show's kickoff, creative director Demna Gvasalia posted a letter addressing the current situation: "The war in Ukraine has triggered the pain of a past trauma I have carried in me since 1993, when the same thing happened in my country and I became a forever refugee. Forever, because that's something that stays in you. The fear, the desperation, the realization that no one wants you. But I also realized what really matters in life, the most important things, like life itself and human love and compassion. This is why working on this show this week was so incredibly hard for me. Because in a time like this, fashion loses its relevance and its actual right to exist. Fashion week feels like some kind of an absurdity. I thought for a moment about canceling the show that I and my team worked hard on and were all looking forward to. But then I realized that canceling this show would mean giving in, surrendering to the evil that has already hurt me so much for almost 30 years. I decided that I can no longer sacrifice parts of me to that senseless, heartless war of ego. This show needs no explanation. It is a dedication to fearlessness, to resistance, and to the victory of love and peace."

With defiant steps, the models began their procession round the runway as they battled against the blizzard. The chaotic scene sure took everyone's breath away. Known for drawing inspiration from an apocalyptic future, Demma strayed away from our dreamy Utopian aspirations. As his somber collection heavy with black clothes appeared on stage, the long trailing lace dresses in yellow and blue serve as adornments of hope, bringing positivity and bravery to the world even amidst the darkest time.

Balenciaga 2022 秋冬系列。

Balenciaga FW22 Fashion Show.

Balenciaga 除了於第一時間於社群平台中提供關於反戰訊息與對烏克蘭難民提供物資，更是停止所有關於時裝的任何貼文，並透過Instagram Story來發佈烏克蘭最新消息，而 Balenciaga 母公司 KERING 集團旗下包含了Gucci、Balenciaga、Bottega Veneta與 Saint Laurent 等時尚品牌宣布捐助聯合國難民署（UNHCR），並在愛馬仕率先關閉俄羅斯品牌的店面後，時尚精品集團包括開雲集團與LVMH集團都關閉在俄羅斯直接運營品牌的門店。愛馬仕透過官方 LinkedIn 帳號表示：「由於對此時歐洲局勢深感憂慮，我們很遺憾地決定暫時關閉在俄羅斯境內的所有門店，並停止所有商業活動。」而 LVMH 集團日前撥出一筆500萬歐元款項捐贈至ICRC紅十字國際委員會，並承諾烏克蘭境內LVMH傭員將會得到財政與安全的支援幫助。另外更是宣布將過去參加過LVMH PRIZE 大賽的三個烏克蘭時裝品牌包含：Anna October、PASKAL及ANTON BELINSKIY，提供基本運營資金援助，協助烏克蘭年青時裝設計師渡過難關。時裝品牌香奈兒（Chanel）除了關閉俄羅斯直營店面後，更宣布連線上商店一併下架。儘管時尚本質源於商業，但在戰爭無情地摧殘下，商業價值也一文不值，時裝品牌撇開利益的義無反顧，著實讓人敬重，也期望在期盼與希望的光輝下，世界能再次平靜。

Besides showing support through social media and paying tribute through their shows, brands under luxury conglomerate KERING—Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent and more—had also made significant donations to the United Nations Refugees Agency (UNHCR) in the hopes for a peaceful resolution. Through their official LinkedIn account, Hermès announced that they will be closing all stores in Russia and pause all commercial activities for the foreseeable future. Luxury conglomerates, LVMH and KERING, took the same measures. So did Chanel, who took a step further and closed its online shop and deliveries in Russia as well. On top of that, LVMH pledged a €5 million relief to the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC) to help those affected by the war and promised to offer financial and operational assistance to its employees in Ukraine. The company will also be offering financial support to three Ukrainian designers—Anna October, Paskal, Anton Belinskiy—who have attended the LVMH Prize in the past. Despite the fact that fashion has its roots in business, the commercial value becomes worthless under the relentless ravages of war. It is undeniably respectful and inspiring to see brands taking their stand against the atrocities as a unity. So let us hope under the light of unity, world peace will once again be restored.