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“It” Predictions 2022秋冬時尚預測:華麗變奏

  • Writer: nien
    nien
  • Apr 5, 2022
  • 9 min read

Updated: Jun 7, 2022


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賞完2022秋冬大秀後,翻找一片片的配件拼圖,春夏迎接繽紛多彩的千禧年,縈繞在閃亮與迷幻的曲調中,秋冬有著變奏的獨特,延續的經典,天馬行空的創意迸發,每一個小細節都宛如一塊注入秘密調味的美妙糕點,有著讓人驚喜激昂的快樂因子。於此挑出了2022下半年「It」 精彩預測,最佳矚目的的首選延續著品牌精神與創意靈感,容我們心先跟著配件一同悠遊。

After watching the AW22 shows, we finally have all the pieces to the puzzle. While the spring and summer seasons welcomed the colorful Y2K with sparkles and psychedelic shades, fall and winter come with unique variations that are the perfect combination of classic and creativity. Like secret-flavored desserts, every small detail is filled with factors that bring joy and excitement. Our editors have made their "it" predictions for the second half of 2022 with top picks that will continue brand spirits and creative inspiration—let us begin.

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半月蔓延

悠遊過一場又一場的伸展台,一款半月形狀重複印照於眼簾,外觀猶如幸運餅乾的造型,自兩年前由美國潮流品牌主理人Matthew M. Williams當上Givenchy創意總監後,將充滿街頭感的叛逆與高級時裝屋優雅持重碰撞結合,前衛俐落的V形輪廓搭配異材質金屬G-Cube鏈飾,既大膽又未來感的稜角 CUT-OUT 包款推出後受到Z世代的喜愛,而 2022 秋冬大秀不僅展現出俐落結構感,更是注入了柔軟元素,一款帶有金屬鎖頭的柔軟舒適 New Hobo 包款想必會成為下一款熱門之選。半月風潮也於 FENDI 2022秋冬秀場中延燒,春夏首度亮相的Fendigraphy包款以Hobo流浪包型為靈感,月牙輪廓於包身下秀出了FENDI字體為標誌設計,秋冬大秀中提供多樣化的變奏色彩,其中一款圓弧形的扁狀包型,以O'Lock符號搭配環圈串接為一體,是創意總監Kim Jones 繼 FendiFirst 和 Fendigraphy 包款傑作後的全新力作。LOEWE 今年春夏全新 Luna 焦點包款外形宛如一彎新月,為經典hobo半月形包款注入清新意念,而秋冬秀場中慵懶形象注入於經典 Puzzle 包款之中,硬挺皮革化作軟泥柔軟,頂部宛如一抹微笑,舒適意象搭配鏈帶點綴,玩味著溫柔與叛逆。

Crescent
After wandering through one show to another, with the resemblance of a fortune cookie, the half-moon silhouette continues to catch our attention. Since Matthew M. Williams became the creative director of Givenchy two years ago, he had successfully combined the defiance of streetwear with the elegance of Haute Couture. With its V-shaped silhouette and metallic G-Cube chain, the bold and futuristic Cut-Out bag soon became Gen Z's favorite the moment it was released. A combination of sleek and soft designs, the new hobo bag introduced in Givenchy's AW22 collection that comes with a distinctive metal clasp is bound to be the next popular choice. The hobo bag craze continues to make its way to this year's Milan Fashion Week, as Fendi unveils the latest Fendigraphy series. Characterized by its smooth, crescent shape, the hobo bag shows off a metallic Fendi logo at its base, offered in brand new iterations. Among all the bags shown, there is one unnamed silhouette that caught everyone's attention—a curved, structured bag with the length of the Fendi Baguette and a chain handle featuring the O'Lock logo. Incorporating fresh ideas into the classic half-moon, LOEWE introduces the brand new Luna bag and reimagines its signature Puzzle bag with softer leather. Adorned with different straps, the model becomes a perfect combination of tenderness and defiance.


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蓬鬆枕頭

手中隨性拎著看似慵懶與柔軟卻又形塑的恰到好處,2022秋冬就是要將柔軟枕頭帶上大街。Bottega Veneta 新創意總監 Matthieu Blazy 保留品牌精湛的經典Intrecciato編織技術與皮革工藝,將療癒柔軟的枕頭包形象於本季大放異彩,看似慵懶毫不費力的包款形象,其實經過工匠技藝與時間練萃而成,從編織工藝為核心出發,編織於一體成型的全新 Kalimero 包款上,體現細膩交織而成的知性風韻。LOEWE Goya小方包在去年推出立刻吸引眾人目光,方正形象的 Goya 在2022秋冬秀場中變為澎潤奶油感的濕潤枕頭,柔滑光澤的皮革在模特兒步伐流動間隱隱閃爍,開啟一場流動舒適的饗宴。而經典 Flamenco 束口包款宛如一朵含苞待放的花蕊,等著綻放、茁壯。目光望相怪誕鬼才 Demna 執掌的 Balenciaga 2022秋冬秀場當中,令編者為之一亮的必定為經典 Hourglass 包型轉變成了Crush 版本,消磨了 Hourglass 包款的銳利稜角,一款充滿癱軟放縱、休閒雅緻的 Balenciaga Crush 包誕生。

Fluffy
Casually carrying the soft silhouette but with just the right structure, this year's fall-winter season is about bringing your fluffy pillows outside. Preserving the classic Bottega Veneta Intrecciato pattern and focusing on the artisanal, creative director Matthieu Blazy brings back the comfort of soft pillow-like bags. The seemingly effortless silhouettes are in fact the results of the artisans' impeccable craftsmanship—just look at the new Kalimero bag, which was woven in one piece with no seams. Another popular choice is LOEWE's Goya bag launched last year. This year, the square-shaped bag is reinterpreted into a buttery model with its glistening leather shining with a soft glow, kickstarting a feast of comfort. The classic Flamenco is also redesigned to resemble a flower bud that is about to bloom. Looking at the ingenious Demna Gvasalia's AW22 show, our editors were struck by the reimagined Hourglass model. Without the classic's sharp and sleek silhouette, the relaxed but refined Balenciaga Crush is thus born.

Bottega Veneta Kalimero / LOEWE Flamenco / LOEWE Goya / Balenciaga Crush。



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奇想樂趣

誰說不能天馬行空,生活上需要一些樂趣調味,能夠一眼使人驚艷,一眼使人會心一笑。Louis Vuitton 老花方正硬箱變奏為一顆側面看似梯形手風琴,正面方正有型的亮點配件,看似「正經八百」的傳承精緻工藝包袋搖身添入了趣味色彩,一瞬間也能迷倒全場。而 GUCCI 經典 Jackie 1961 包款於2022秋冬大秀中不僅縮小迷你更是加長了背帶,經典優雅也能創造無限休閒感 ; Gucci Bamboo 1947包款仍可見於秋冬時裝伸展台中,復古可愛結合著龐克鉚釘那不羈瘋狂的獨特氣息,相互碰撞恣意玩轉。超現實主義在2022 LOEWE 秋冬大秀中徹底解放, 創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 將經典Flamenco包款本季被轉化為鞋履設計概念,延續著 Flamenco 包款的獨特美感外,滑稽趣味成了本季的重點,今年秋冬也可以試著搞怪瘋狂。

Whimsical
Who says we can't let our imagination run free? We all need to spice up our lives with some fun, for it can bring us unexpected surprises that will put a smile on our face. Resembling the shape of an accordion, the newly altered Louis Vuitton Petite Malle comes with a variety of different colors, instantly becoming everyone's favorite with its whimsical shape. On the other hand, Gucci decided to shrink its classic Jackie 1961 bag and adorn it with an elongated strap, creating a perfect clash of elegance and creativity. The Gucci Bamboo 1947 also made its appearance on stage at the AW22 fashion show. Retro, cute, but defiant, the addition of Punk rivets creates a sense of unrestrained distinctiveness. Lastly, continuing the surrealist theme, Loewe's creative director Jonathan Anderson decides to turn the Flamenco bag into footwear, a fun reiteration of the brand's classic.

Louis Vuitton 老花方正硬箱變奏為一顆側面看似梯形手風琴 / GUCCI 經典 Jackie 1961 包款於2022秋冬大秀中不僅縮小迷你更是加長了背帶 / Givenchy 水餃包造型的 Kenny 包款。


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復古女伶

高飽和度的色彩搭配,低腰緊身褲與低腰迷你裙、未來感特殊面料都屬於回歸千禧年的重點趨勢,自上一季2022春夏系列 Miu Miu 模特兒們以超短版上衣搭配超低腰短裙奪人目光後,時尚圈因此注入一股低腰炫腹風潮,春夏系列的推出不僅造成了一陣轟動,而此轟動必定延燒至秋冬。Miu Miu 2022秋冬時裝大秀上一件件海軍風格單品,藍、白、黑與紅搭配著超大號西裝外套,極具性感之姿的雙腰帶迷你短裙與短褲貫穿整系列,此次更是加入了小心機,將緞面感的內褲頭露出至短褲外,低腰的迷人姿態也瞬間回到Y2K繽紛瘋狂的年代,搭配上長襪搭配芭蕾舞鞋,Miu Miu女孩的我行我素,帶有一些叛逆一點神經,在玩趣與優雅之間舞動。超高底的瑪莉珍鞋為造型增添份量感與復古感受,在這幾季相當火紅的厚底樂福鞋風潮後,高底瑪莉珍鞋耀回時尚舞台,優雅之姿融合著歐洲絢爛華麗,在燈光亮起,石階伴隨著高根步伐閃爍,鞋履搖晃舞動,屬於女人的魅力醉人夜色。

Retro
From the high saturated color coordination, low waist jeans and skirts, to the special futuristic materials, everything is taking us back to the year 2000. Ever since last season's cropped top and low-riding Y2K skirts, Miu Miu has brought back the retro trend that will surely continue into fall and winter. With a selection of navy-themed pieces—in blue, white, black and red—worn under oversized blazers, Miu Miu's AW22 fashion show is filled with double-belted miniskirts and short shorts. Revealing the hemline of the lingerie underneath, each look on stage immediately takes us back to the crazy Y2K days. The combination of ballerinas and long, knitted socks flawlessly captures the rebellious, slightly neurotic personality of a Miu Miu girl. Elegantly showcasing the luxurious European culture, the platform Mary Janes adds a sense of volume and retro ambience to this season's outfits. As the lights are turned on, the stone steps rivet against the model's footsteps, we are now witnessing a charmingly seductive night scene that belongs to women, and women only.

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Miu Miu 2022秋冬時裝大秀上搭配著超大號西裝外套,極具性感之姿的雙腰帶迷你短裙與短褲貫穿整系列,此次更是加入了小心機,將緞面感的內褲頭露出至短褲外,低腰的迷人姿態也瞬間回到Y2K繽紛瘋狂的年代。


PRADA 2022 秋冬系列 / FENDI 2022 秋冬系列。
PRADA FW22 Fashion Show / FENDI FW22 Fashion Show.

Bottega Veneta 2022 秋冬系列,超高底的瑪莉珍鞋為造型增添份量感與復古感受 / Saint Laurent 2022 秋冬系列。
Elegantly showcasing the luxurious European culture, the platform Mary Janes adds a sense of volume and retro ambience to this season's outfits. / Saint Laurent FW22 Fashion Show.



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珠寶新姿態

時尚珠寶已然成為現今一種點綴風格,裝飾主義再次席捲世代,透過細緻鑲嵌的寶石、礦石及金屬符號融合於服裝搭配上,細節堆疊創造出流暢豐富的層次視覺,令人怦然心動。Dior 早春系列從古希臘神話與建築獲得靈感,以絢麗金色金屬塑造出藤蔓、蝴蝶等以自然元素為造型珠寶,古希臘式的網狀交疊營造出浪漫典雅氣息,此次2022秋冬時裝秀中再次勾勒女神風采,翻領造型的頸鏈尤其令人驚喜,以金色金屬與細膩白色珍珠手工鑲點其中,刻劃出裝飾主義繁複複雜的圖騰,點綴於奶油白色的裙裝中,戒指的光澤綻放,融合著古典藝術與賽車風格的現代叛逆靈魂。說到珍珠,此次 Givenchy 創意總監 Matthew M. Williams 將古典珍珠化身成龐克搖滾風格,2022 秋冬時裝大秀中每套黑色叛逆服裝都點綴著溫柔白巨大珍珠,一瞬間珍珠彷彿磨出了稜角,變的個性有型。前一陣子熱賣的FENDI O’Lock系列為珠寶設計師 Delfina Delettrez 之作,本季再度翻玩 F 字母,將 F 打造成一把鑰匙,甚至是設計 F 字母耳骨耳飾,貫穿於全系列項鍊、耳飾吊墜作品。

Fresh
Fashion jewelry has become a style for embellishment nowadays. Through the layers of details, Art Deco is once again coming back with the adornment of gemstones and metallic numerals. Drawing inspiration from Ancient Greek myths and architecture, Dior's pre-fall collection brings the natural elements—vines and butterflies—to life with the use of gorgeous gold metals. The most surprising detail from the House's AW22 show is perhaps the lapel-shaped necklace. A mixture of gold metals and handcrafted pearl embellishments, the accessory highlights the complex Art Deco totems. Together, the feminine chiffon dress, glistening rings and protective racing gloves perfectly capture the soul of a modern rebel. Speaking of pearls, Givenchy's creative director Matthew M. Williams successfully reimagines the classic pearls through punk rock styles. Every defiant look from his AW22 ready-to-wear collection is styled with gentle but voluminous pearl accessories; it is almost as if the pearls are given sharp edges to add a sense of personality. Meanwhile, from jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez, the FENDI O'Lock collection once again plays around with the iconic letter F by transforming it into a key. The F-letter can even be seen as alterations of ear piercings that are used through a whole series of necklaces, earrings and pendants.

1. Balenciaga 2022 秋冬系列。
Balenciaga FW22 Fashion Show.

2. Dior 2022秋冬時裝秀中再次勾勒女神風采,翻領造型的頸鏈尤其令人驚喜,以金色金屬與細膩白色珍珠手工鑲點其中,刻劃出裝飾主義繁複複雜的圖騰,點綴於奶油白色的裙裝中。

3. Givenchy 創意總監 Matthew M. Williams 將古典珍珠化身成龐克搖滾風格。
Givenchy's creative director Matthew M. Williams successfully reimagines the classic pearls through punk rock styles.

4. Saint Laurent 2022 秋冬系列以有著時尚與叛逆的代名詞的英國女作家 Nancy Cunard 為靈感繆斯,這季配飾上可以看到 Nancy Cunard 擅長的多層次手鐲風格穿搭,延續著他的叛逆血液與粗獷靈魂並與 Saint Laurent 的中性魅力相容,堆疊出層層原始質感的金屬礦石寬手鐲。


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